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Myconoside-Rich Plant Biotech Active Ingredients Provide Skin Rejuvenation and UV Protection

When consumers explain what they expect from their skincare, high efficacy and one-product-for-all-needs rank high in the answers. At the same time, they increasingly value natural origin – for the sake of their own well-being and because of concern for the environment. Myconoside-rich extracts from in vitro cultures of  plants in the genera Haberlea and Ramonda of the Gesneriaceae family, developed and patented by Innova BM Ltd., are a perfect fit for this sustained trend. With their UV-protective, antioxidant, collagen- and elastin-stimulating properties, they provide skin rejuvenation combined with UV absorption and SPF boosting.

The rare molecule Myconoside is bio-synthesized only by Haberlea rhodopensis and a couple of other plants in the genera Haberlea and Ramonda of the Gesneriaceae family, most of them endemic and protected. It is linked to the resurrection mechanism of the plant and is credited with its rejuvenating properties.

A Powerful Antioxidant

 Myconoside-rich extracts of in vitro cultures of plants in the Haberlea and Ramonda genera are powerful antioxidants:

Figure 1 Antioxidant activity of Haberlea extract and BHT by 3 methods

Butylated hydroxytoluene is a synthetic molecule. The comparison with a natural substance – Curcumin – demonstrates further the extraordinary anti-oxidative potential of Myconoside-rich plant extracts:

Figure 2  DPPH Radical scavenging of Myconoside-rich Haberlea extract and Curcumin (0,5% concentration)

The remarkable antioxidant activity of Myconoside translates into a wide range of cosmetic benefits. The radical-scavenging, the reduction of lipid oxidation and anti-inflammatory activity slows and even reverses ageing process, and counteracts pollution-related skin damage. The active ingredients based on Myconoside-rich in vitro cultures provide visible rejuvenation by enhancing skin elasticity and hydration, illuminating the skin, decreasing wrinkles and pigmentation and creating a feeling of freshness, softness and comfort.

A Positive Effect on the Activity of Mitochondria

Haberlea rhodopensis extracts (HRT) of 50 and 100 µg/ml final concentrations for 24 h have a positive effect on the activity of mitochondria of Lep 3 cells. The results show that the mitochondrial potential is increased. Fluorescent microscope studies show that the morphology of mitochondria is enhanced, resembling mitochondrial fission (a sign of rejuvenating cells).

Figure 3 Mitochondrial morphology of Lep3 cells via dual staining with Biotracker

In Vivo Studies

InnovaBioTech Haberlea was tested in three concentrations – placebo, 0,15% and 3% (minimum and maximum recommended concentration respectively) on 30 healthy women and men aged 34 – 75, with application twice a day. At day 14, volunteers reported 23% increase in hydration, 29% improvement in elasticity, 27% increase in skin radiance and 24% pigmentation decrease. At day 28, volunteers reported 48% increase in hydration, 62% improvement in elasticity, 58% increase in skin radiance and 52% pigmentation decrease.

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