OLIVEM 2090 - The Ultimate W/O Cold Process Emulsifier

There is a belief that formulating water in oil emulsion (W/O) is difficult the Oil in Water emulsion(O/W). Also, some of the formulators more likely to opt for O/W emulsions while formulating beauty products. O/W systems do offer some key advantages and perhaps fewer manufacturing challenges, but W/O systems offer other benefits and ultimately more versatility.  Some assumed Challenges of W/O emulsion are that it cannot deliver the light sensorial Feel, High energy is required for a stable W/O emulsion.

Fortunately, modern advances in esterification chemistry allow for the creation of a new generation of emulsifiers that provide more easily attained stability with improved aesthetics, lower energy requirements, and a more natural profile. Hallstar Beauty recently introduced Olivem 2090 (INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate), a 100% natural-derived, cold process W/O emulsifier offering exceptional performance and excellent sensorial and hydration benefits for multiple applications. 


Hallstar’s expertise in olive oil chemistry enabled the development of this unique ingredient, combining the emulsifying properties of polyglycerol esters of polyricinoleic acids and the skin benefits of olive oil fatty acids.

  • Sensoriality: Olivem 2090 gives an exceptional lightness and spreadability associated with fast absorption, high skin softness, and silky after-feel. In comparison to more traditional emulsifiers used in equal percentages.
  • Stability: Olivem 2090 creates a homogeneous layer that surrounds water droplets and confers high stability to the emulsion.

It, not any has high Compatibility with every type of oil and Preservative but it also reduces the load of ingredients necessary to obtain good dispersion. As it improves the wettability of all UV filters like TiO2 and ZnO and perfectly emulsifies all organic sun filters.

Olivem 200 is an ideal emulsifier for light sunscreen formulation as it has the added benefit of broad compatibility with sun care ingredients tested at a standard percentage. Along with its sensorial properties, it also has water resistance benefits.

Hallstar Beauty’s goal with Olivem 2090 was to create a single, unique, and functionalized molecule – not a blend or mixture. So not only does Olivem 2090 satisfy marketing’s preference for natural ingredients that can ‘greenify’ a formulation, but it also has the additional advantage of a short, ‘clean’ INCI name.

By using Olivem 2090, it is possible to achieve completely natural, elegant water-in-oil emulsions with biomimetic properties and light skin feel for a broad range of applications.

• INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate/Polyricinoleate
• Appearance: light yellow viscous liquid
• Recommended concentration: 2-4%
• Formulation flexibility: from serums to thick creams
• Versatile and cold processable.
• Range pH 3 10.

• 100% derived natural ingredient
• ISO 16128 derived natural ingredient Index 1
• No palm-derived ingredient
• Readily biodegradable according to OECD 310
• 100% renewable
• Vegan friendly